The 2012 Riesling “Sawmill Creek Vineyards – North Block” is a much sweeter style (a Spatlese, said winemaker Kelby Russell) than its South Block sibling reviewed this issue. It comes in with a hefty 67 grams per liter of residual sugar and just 7.2% alcohol. On opening, this by far was the least impressive of the Sawmill trio featured this issue because it didn’t quite balance the sugar on opening as well as some of the others. This is more or less my preferred style, but it just didn’t seem to execute it as well. Of course, the sugar content is rather high here and it’s not meant to seem dry. That said, it was just plain delicious, but nothing more. Somewhat to my surprise, this blossomed with a couple of hours of air, integrating its sugar far better while still seeming persistent, crisp and relatively full-bodied. At this point, the acidity took over, enlivened the wine and provided rather impressive tension on the finish. The balance became far more interesting, far more classic Mosel, with the acidity waging war with the sugar. The Day 2 rating, in other words, was a lot higher; it seemed far simpler on first taste. Every time I thought that, it proved me wrong. This is another winner in this lineup, easy to like, but also easy to admire.
91 points – #219, The Wine Advocate