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Red Newt / Taverna Banfi Dinner 11/3/10
The autumn Red Newt dinner at Taverna Banfi is one of my absolute favorite events of the year! It celebrates the Finger Lakes Culinary Bounty, Red Newt wines, the Cornell College of Hotel Administration, and most importantly, the end of harvest for me. It’s really a great treat to finish off the year’s most hectic season in the cellar with a feast like this. That being said, they could serve cardboard and water, and I would probably be thrilled. The dinner is, of course, so much more, so that even folks who aren’t sore and completely exhausted have an outstanding experience.
This year, venison made an appearance on the menu, which had me particularly psyched. I don’t get much venison at home, probably because I’m not-so-nimble with a bow, and not even close to shotgun-savvy. Add that excitement to the fact that it was paired with my all-time favorite Red Newt wine, the 2007 Glacier Ridge Cabernet Franc, and I was in heaven. The relative strength or weakness of any given Finger Lakes Cabernet Franc can make it difficult to pair blind, I think. Thankfully this was a collaborative effort, and this is a strong wine. Big and smoky, with bacon and rich dark fruit, and a smooth finish that belies its youth. The venison was stuffed with sausage, currants, and pecans which was a perfect compliment – smoky, dark fruit and nutty tannins. Add in some root veggies and greens, and you’ve got a little slice of perfect. I commented at one point that the wine (with the venison) tasted like Malbec. I got funny looks, but I’m sticking to my guns on that one.
If you have the chance, put this on your calendar next time. The students get credit, and are well-deserved, because they did a great job.
Hydrofracking – The Right Thing To Do, The Wrong Time To Do It
There has been plenty of talk lately about hydrofracking in the Finger Lakes. Drive down the road and you’ll see No Frack signs sprinkled about, then turn on the radio or TV, and you’ll hear how it’s the answer to all our energy problems. A cursory Google search turns up more information than you’ll ever want to read, but it all seems to be agenda-tainted. How is one to sort it all out? I attended a seminar by Cornell University’s Dr. Anthony Ingraffea this week that really helped me decide exactly how I feel about the whole issue. It’s worth stating that Tony is a doctor of engineering, not a scientist, which in my opinion lends some objectivity to this highly emotional debate. So for what it’s worth, here are my thoughts:
1. Hydrofracking works. This is not new technology, it’s just new to New York. Others can explain the process more eloquently than I, so check out this link for the basics. That being said, if our objective in the US is to gain energy independence, every cubic foot of natural gas produced here translates to less foreign energy importation. That’s a good thing. The problem is that from an environmental standpoint, we have some things to think about. Let me say first off, that I am not an environmentalist. I do, however, think that the natural beauty and bounty of the Finger Lakes is a treasure I would not be willing to put at risk. Risks notwithstanding, hydrofracking is a viable process by which to extract natural gas from the Marcellus Shale beneath us.
2. American Ingenuity. It’s an overused phrase, but we overuse it because it’s real. There is not a single con on the list that could not be addressed, and solved by our national body of scientists and engineers. We simply need to do so. A major con at this point is the issue of water. Hydrofracking requires a large volume of water – the number tossed around lately is around five million gallons per well. Compared to the volume flowing over Niagara Falls per hour, that’s a small number. Compared to what’s in your bathtub, that’s a large number. Regardless, the water used in the fracking process is treated with chemicals in specific concentrations at different stages. That means the waste water coming out is not necessarily recyclable for use in the next well. It is also not suitable for general disposal. It has to be either stored in tanks, or treated at a wastewater disposal facility. We need to figure this one out – supply, disposal and treatment are a big question mark at this point.
I should also note that the Finger-Lakes-proper is not a hot spot for hydrofracking right now. Check out this map (borrowed from here):
The main activity for proposed drilling (known as the “Fairway”) is in Marcellus Shale at depths that skirt the 3000 line on the map – deep Southern Tier counties, Pennsylvania, West Virginia, and a piece of Maryland. Seneca Lake is more or less on the fringe, and we are more likely to see infrastructure effects than we are actual wells. We’ve got less shale, but more water. So to sum up the bullet point, why not let Pennsylvania figure out what works and what doesn’t? The New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC) will have a better understanding of how to properly write its regulations by learning from the successes and failures of our southern neighbors.
3. Timing is everything. The estimates of the total volume of natural gas within the shale formations are just that: estimates. No one can say with any certainty exactly how much gas there is, although the estimates seem to be getting larger and larger. Dr. Ingraffea presented the latest estimate, which is around 500 trillion cubic feet of gas, of which around 10% is feasibly extractable. Based on our national consumption rate of natural gas (around 24 trillion cubic feet per year), this volume will not provide long term energy independence for the US. The volume is significant, however, and so are the dollars, so the issue of timing comes into play. Gas prices are relatively inexpensive and supply is relatively plentiful at this time. Why rush into production when it’s not necessary? Better to wait until the process has been refined, the safety improved, the regulations studied and implemented, and demand increases against the supply. In short, get our ducks in a row now, so that if in the future hydrofracking becomes more environmentally palatable and economically necessary – we’ll be ready.
The best thing to do right now, in my opinion, is to keep the conversation active. The more we talk about this, the better we’ll all understand it. The sooner we quell the rumors of toxic radioactivity and earthquakes the better – progress and hysteria don’t mix. That’s my two cents. Let’s hear what you’ve got to say.
2009 Tierce Update
One of the highlights of my Wine Year is the creation of the next Tierce. It’s a collaborative effort, so no one ever knows what’s going to happen until we all sit down together. On January 11th, the Tierce Brothers (Bell, Reinhardt, and Whiting) and their trusty sidekicks (Renshaw, Becraft, and Seager) got together for the first time of the new year. The 2009 vintage, remember, was a short growing season plauged by rain and cool temperatures throughout. Riesling ultimately favors this type of scenario, so we were looking forward to some interesting wines.
That goal of the first meeting was simply to taste through all the Riesling lots, and see what we’ve got to work with. It’s still early in the Wine Year, so the wines are very young in character, often reductive, and heavy with fermentation esters like bubble gum, bananas, and fruit cocktail. After tasting through all 21 wines, it was clear this year we had our work cut out for us. My notes range from Delicious gooseberry and sweet lime to Ugh – burnt tire, and just about everything in between. After discussing the merits of each wine, we discussed their potential both individually, and as part of the greater blend. Several hours of tasting and re-tasting later, 14 wines made the cut for the next meeting.
Overall, a great lineup from which to create an outstanding Riesling. I suspect the 2009 Tierce will remain true to form in both Finger Lakes character, and the historical Tierce flavor profile. Only time will tell.
More to come!
Hibernation: Not Just For Bears
One of the questions I get asked most often is, “So what do you do all year after the wine is made?” As I look out over the snow-covered desolate beauty of the Finger Lakes in February, I can understand why some might think that this time of year is best spent by enjoying the fruits of our labor beside a crackling fire and a good book. No so, however, because there are some things happening in the cellar right now.
January and February are by far the low points of activity in the wine cycle. As opposed to Calendar Years or Fiscal Years, I tend to think in terms of Wine Years. Late winter is smack dab in the middle of the Wine Year. Fermentation has finished, and most of the wines have been racked off of their heavy lees. The reds have also finished their malolactic fermentations, and the barrels have been topped off and bunged. In short, the wines are made and have been tucked away to rest.
So what’s going on? The wine is chemically adapting to its new state. Turning juice into wine is a fairly violent process in terms of chemistry. The past few weeks of rest have allowed the wine to adjust and mature. Acids are softening. Flavors and mouthfeel are developing. Color and protein are polymerizing. Alcohol is integrating. It takes some time for thing to come together.
One of the real advantages of making wine in the Finger Lakes is our nice cold winters. Our tanks are enjoying the winter temperatures, too, so that the wine can cold stabilize. At prolonged exposure to these low temperatures, excess tartaric acid precipitates out of the wine in the form of tartrate crystals. Other wine regions rack up enormous electric bills to achieve what Mother Nature gives us for free every year. If I want to turn lemons into lemonade – every time I shiver to the bone from the New York winter, I think to yourself: “Hey, this is great for the wine.”
So that’s Red Newt in February. Soon we’ll wake the wine up, but for now, let’s just let the sleeping bear lie.